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Hawaii – Aloha Spirit

With storybook beaches and a coveted lifestyle, Hawaii’s legacy as the greatest getaway endures.

Hawaii – Aloha Spirit

With storybook beaches and a coveted lifestyle, Hawaii’s legacy as the greatest getaway endures.

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With storybook beaches and a coveted lifestyle, Hawaii’s legacy as the greatest getaway endures.

“It was just the three of us,” said Rev. Ron Valenciana, remembering the 2005 wedding ceremony he performed for Arnold Palmer and Kathleen “Kit” Gawthrop at Turtle Bay Resort in Hawaii. “It was sweet and simple and meaningful.”

The setting could not have been more idyllic—a luxury cottage on the beach, soft music, ocean in the background, wind rustling through the palms overhead… everyday stuff for Hawaii and why—despite having visited the state enough times for his chief pilot to refer to it as “old hat”—Palmer wanted it for his wedding. He’s not alone.

The first civilian flight to the Aloha State was a Travelair monoplane named “City of Oakland,” which left California’s Oakland Field on June 28, 1927 and landed in a breadfruit tree on Molokai just 26 hours and 36 minutes later.

Between the start of this year and the end of May, Hawaii had already hosted 2.6 million visitors who came by air (and landed far more successfully). Most arrived in Honolulu and stayed put, never venturing beyond the pink sands of Waikiki. A small few set out to discover what the other islands had to offer, and were richly rewarded. Either way, there’s no denying the appeal of our 50th state. Here’s a quick look at paradise:

Oahu

For many visitors, the island of Oahu and its capital city, Honolulu, is Hawaii. Honolulu is certainly the most “happening” city in the islands, and Waikiki is one of the most famous beaches in the world. Perhaps surprisingly, despite being saturated with sunburned Europeans, pale new arrivals from the Midwest and what seems like half of all Japanese weddings being performed anywhere, the area manages to retain its charm. Besides the busy shops and restaurants—we recommend Keo’s Thai Cuisine—there are public parks, surfing lessons and more than enough tropical bars to entertain.

The Hilton Hawaiian Village is a safe bet for accommodations (ask for the Rainbow Tower) and has one of the nicest beaches on the strip. Also, a 2009 re-tooling of the property’s casual dining yielded great results, and the on-site shopping can’t be beat. The Moana Surfrider is another option. The “First Lady of Waikiki” opened in 1901, and a recent renovation of the historic wing is well worth a look; the rooms are small but elegant, and the views are unbelievable. An added plus: the property’s oceanside patio is covered by an Indian Banyan tree. Seven feet tall when it was planted in 1904, today it stands at nearly 75 feet, sprawls for nearly 150 feet and is protected as a state historic treasure.

Wherever you stay on Waikiki, make sure to stop by the Halekulani Hotel and its charming House Without A Key patio bar and restaurant. With waves rolling behind them, former Miss Hawaiis dance to authentic, old-school island music performed by talented local musicians, maintaining an atmosphere that has endured since the first days of Hawaiian tourism (and the mai tais aren’t bad either).

If you fancy a round of golf and/or you’re looking to purchase a Hawaiian golf residence, the Hoakalei Country Club in Ewa (just outside Honolulu) features top quality homes and Ernie Els’ first design in Hawaii.

On the North Shore of Oahu, Mr. Palmer liked Turtle Bay Resort for his wedding and accommodations, and if it’s good enough for him… well, you get the picture. Situated on nearly five miles of beachfront, the property boasts every amenity you could want, including a Palmer-designed golf course.

Lana’i

There’s not much to do on Lana’i, and that’s the charm. Back in the day, the island served as a large pineapple plantation for Dole. Lana’i City, the only town on Lana’i, was built to house the workers. Today, the small ville’s charming historic district is listed as one of the most endangered historic sites in the U.S. and is well worth a visit. Though small, the island is environmentally dynamic, featuring stunning beaches, obscure rock moonscapes and even thick pine forests. There’s a cute local hotel in the city, but Four Seasons is the only luxury game in town. Thankfully, there are two locations: The Lodge at Koele sits above the city, while Four Seasons Manele Bay is down on the water. The bay itself is a protected marine enclave, and the fish seem to know it. Great snorkeling along the reef is outdone by the pod of wild dolphins that visits almost daily. From the hotel’s pool bar, you can watch them leaping and spinning; down in the water, the view is pure dream material. The Lodge at Koele is styled as an old-school British hunting lodge, and it’s a surprisingly convincing world apart. A meticulously manicured lawn and gardens, complete with a made-in-England glass orchid house, sit behind the elegant main building, which houses a wild game restaurant, among other amenities.

For a bit of fiscal relief in dining, eat in town at Pele’s Other Garden, a great lunchtime deli that turns into an Italian bistro at night (proprietors Mark and Barbara are wonderful). Alternately, if you like raw tuna, a new poké place recently opened behind the ice cream shop. Recreational options on Lana’i include renting a Jeep for some serious off-roading to various points of interest or booking a tour and letting someone else drive, which does nothing for the bumps but at least saves having to fix the tire if it goes.

Maui

You’ll likely arrive in the city of Lahaina. Located on Maui’s western tip, this one-time whaling port and seat of Hawaiian kings has a colorful history. Prior to unification, the town was a hotbed of conflict. At one point in the late 19th century, in a bizarre conflict between whalers and Christian missionaries, whaling ships actually shelled Lahaina. Today, the town serves as the gateway to the north-coast resorts. The Ritz-Carlton at Kapalua is your best bet for golf as it has two excellent courses: The Plantation Course, which hosts the PGA Tour’s Mercedes-Benz Championships each January, and The Bay Course, designed by Palmer. In town, Kimo’s restaurant has fresh fish at good prices, while I’Os offers a contemporary interpretation of classic island fare. Dominating the eastern side of Maui, Haleakala volcano rises 10,000 feet. It’s possible to book a tour to the summit, then coast down on a bicycle.

The Big Island

Hawaii’s Big Island is still growing. The Kilauea volcano is constantly erupting, pushing molten lava across its slopes and into the sea. The best way to see it is by helicopter, but a drive through Volcanoes National Park offers a decent view. At the center of the island, the dormant Mauna Kea volcano is technically the world’s tallest mountain, measuring more than 33,000 feet from the sea floor (it’s just under 14,000 feet above sea level). Its peak provides some of the best stargazing on the planet. Also it’s possible to snow ski here in winter, though it’s not the most popular sport in Hawaii. The north coast has the luxury resorts, and the Mauna Lani Bay Hotel and Bungalows is a fine option. The resort’s two courses are a delight and offer incredible oceanside play. Additionally, the property’s Canoe House restaurant serves excellent cuisine, including sushi.

Kauai

“The Garden Isle,” formed some six million years ago, is the oldest and northernmost island in Hawaii. Kauai is a nature lover’s dream. Its Napali coast offers thick rainforest, massive cliffs, plunging waterfalls and numerous canyons, bays and beaches. If you enjoy boating, it’s possible to kayak on the Wailua River (all of Hawaii’s navigable rivers are in Kauai). If you’re a hiker, Waimea Canyon is 3,000 feet deep with miles of trails to explore. This “Grand Canyon of the Pacific” is a must-see for Kauai visitors. For accommodations, the Grand Hyatt at Poipu beach is a 1920s-style retreat with an 18-hole golf course. On-site dining is superb, but you should also try Hamura’s Saiman Stand in Lihue which serves long lines of locals with steaming bowls of Kauai’s staple, Saiman—a noodle soup with vegetables, wontons, hard-boiled eggs, sweetened pork and whatever else the chef includes.

Molokai

The island is small, the people are friendly and the pace is so slow it can barely be measured. You don’t come to Molokai to party, you come to relax and enjoy Hawaii the way it used to be. With the longest white sand beach in the islands and not a single traffic light, relaxing isn’t difficult. Deciding where to stay is easy: there’s only one hotel on the island. Hotel Molokai has beach houses and condos available for vacation rentals. Choosing an eatery is slightly more difficult—several local options include Big Daddy’s Filipino plate lunches and the Kualapu’u Cookhouse country café. Papohaku Beach offers three miles of continuous white sand, but the rip currents make swimming impossible. For that, Dixie Maru Beach is better, as are most of the island’s other beaches. Halawa, home to Molokai’s first residents, is a valley of breathtaking natural beauty and features a two-tier waterfall—Hipuapua cascades 500 feet into a pool before feeding Moa’ula which drops 250 feet into another pool. Kalaupapa had a leper colony from 1866 until the 1940s where a Belgian priest named Father Damien devoted his life to caring for the residents until succumbing to the disease himself. He will be made a saint this October. Today Kalaupapa is a national monument, though a few former patients still live there, which means visits must be arranged through a local tour operator.

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