Come to this land of sunshine To this land where life is young. Where the wide, wide world is waiting, The songs that will now be sung. Where the golden sun is flaming Into warm, white shining day, And the sons of men are blazing Their priceless right of way.
The first verse of Arizona’s official song gives a not-so-subtle indication of one of the state’s most sacred principles: Right of way. One needs to look no further than the state’s senator (and current candidate for president) to know that Arizonans value their freedom and will fight hard to defend it. Not just a living example of “Old West” mentality, the nation’s sixth-largest state originally helped to define it with its rugged mountains, independent settlers and unforgiving deserts. There’s plenty of room for all (including the fierce wildlife), and that means there’s plenty of room for golf.
Golf in Arizona tends to be like most other refined entities that come to the Southwest—a bit rougher around the edges than its counterparts in other states. Even the most perfectly groomed Arizona course is subject to be visited by snakes, coyotes and even the odd mountain lion (Note to self: No steak sandwiches in the cart). That hasn’t stopped a huge number of PGA and LPGA pros from living here. In fact, so many began golfing in the state’s university system that ASU could be regarded as pro golf training camp.
Not surprisingly though, there’s a lot more to Arizona than cowboys, wildlife and professional golfers. A host of historic sites, incredible scenery and great cuisine awaits the traveler who doesn’t mind dealing with a little summer heat. So why not take a week off, fly into Phoenix and rent a car—just make sure it has air conditioning and room in the trunk for your clubs.
Not only is Arizona’s state capital the second largest city in the West (after Los Angeles), Phoenix is the overall largest state capital in the country in terms of population. Far from cinema’s historical picture of nomadic natives and rampaging pistoleros, the area’s past is one of agrarian stability. The original inhabitants of the Phoenix area, known as the Hohokam, spent 1,000 years occupying the land. By the time they’d left in the mid 15th century, the group had created a viable farming community in the desert by building nearly 140 miles of irrigation canals. Some 400 years later, the remains of those canals laid the blueprint for a new irrigation system, without which Phoenix wouldn’t exist.
History buffs will head to Heritage Square and enjoy poking around in Phoenix’s Victorian past, but if you’ve only got one day in the city we suggest Copper Square. “The heart of downtown Phoenix,” Copper Square is where you’ll find all of the serious shopping, eating and attractions in the city. Grab lunch at the Copper Door restaurant (in the historic Hotel San Carlos) or just a quick pint to cool down at Seamus McCaffrey’s Irish pub. Plan in advance, and you can even catch a Diamond Backs game. If you’re looking to kill a few hours between golf and dinner, Copper Square is the place. coppersquare.com
Anyone headed to Phoenix will be anxious to take advantage of the area’s sunny days and excellent golf. Wildfire Golf Club at Marriott’s large Desert Ridge property offers two championship courses. Unfortunately, the Arnold Palmer-designed course is closed this summer, but the other one is open for play and includes all of the excellent amenities for which Wildfire is known: A large practice facility with two putting greens, carts offering GPS screens that include the CBS Sportsline Ticker and a great steakhouse in the club itself, among others. The golf itself is true Arizona-style, which means huge fairways, plenty of sand (106 bunkers) and stunning scenery. jwdesertridgeresort.com. Starfire at Scottsdale Country Club is a 27-hole track located in north central Scottsdale with views of the McDowell Mountains. The course comprises three sets of nine; the “King” nine which was designed by Arnold Palmer and opened in 1988, and the Squire and the Hawk nines — both of which were redesigned by Palmer, who added fresh and challenging bunkers and water hazards on several holes. At between $20 and $45 a round the Starfire is great value for money. starfiregolfclub.com
Not far from Starfire is We-Ko-Pa Golf club, part of a resort and casino complex owned by the Fort McDowell Yavapai Nation. It comprises two great courses, the Cholla and the Saguaro. Both offer beautiful views of the Verde and Salt River Valleys and both the Red and the famous Superstition mountains. The Cholla course is probably the more serene and certainly has more natural beauty. The Saguaro, which only opened in 2006, is more a classic course. There is almost has a Scottish feel to the way the course appears to blend timelessly into the land and in the way the greens and tees follow closely on from each other. Neither courses nor the resort get super busy but the management suggest booking ahead for tee times. We-Ko-Pa regular makes it into the various national lists of “Best Courses You Can Play” and it is easy to see why. WeKoPa.com
You can stay at both We-Ko-Pa and Desert Ridge and enjoy their excellent facilities. We can certainly recommend dining at the Desert Ridge’s superb AAA Four-Diamond Ristorante Tuscany, even if you weren’t quite so lucky on the red at We-Ko-Pa casino. For a little variation it might be worth checking out The Phoenician, a Starwood property that offers a little history with its luxury thephoenician.com. Perfectly appointed rooms, excellent dining, vintage-styled casitas at the refreshing Oasis pool complex and a host of other amenities ensure this resort has all the splendor you’ll need in the desert. At the entrance of the resort’s grounds sits the old Jokake Inn. Now used for corporate events, the original was built as a tearoom in 1922 and opened as a resort in 1927. Guests included Frank Lloyd Wright, who no doubt enjoyed the Jokake’s on-site musical entertainment, chicken salad sandwiches and “Sure Death” devil’s food cake, which went for 50 cents a slice. In tribute, daily high tea is offered from 1:30pm (reservations required).
For lunch, grab something at the course; the food is good and more than adequate. You’re saving for dinner, which will be at Vincent’s on Camelback. This exceptional restaurant gets its interesting name from the chef who opened it (Vincent) and the road on which it’s found (Camelback). An eclectic mix of classic French recipes and Southwestern ingredients, Vincent’s is a must-visit when in Phoenix. Corn Ravioli with White Truffle Oil, Grilled Maine Lobster with Habañero Pasta and the Tequila “Gold” Soufflé are all highly recommended. vincentsoncamelback.com; (602) 224-0225.
Roughly two hours south/southwest of Phoenix you’ll find true cowboy country. Tucson’s 1 million people live in the “borderland,” a region that blends American, Native American and Mexican cultures into a singular and intriguing lifestyle.
While re-enactments of the gunfight at the OK Corral in (relatively) nearby Tombstone are well and good, Tucson will particularly appeal to fans of old Spanish Missions and spiritual sites. Right in downtown, St. Augustine Cathedral offers a feast for the eyes. Built in 1896 and rebuilt in the 1960s, the cathedral features a sandstone façade that is covered with relief carvings of saguaro, yucca and desert lizards, among other things. Not far away El Tiradito, or “The Wishing Shrine,” offers an intriguing diversion. It is said that whomever lights a candle in the evening will have their wish granted if the candle burns all night. Certainly worth a try.
If you visited El Tiradito and wished for a hole-in-one, test the shrine’s effectiveness at Starr Pass jwmarriottstarrpass.com; (520) 792-3500. Arnold Palmer designed a series of three nine-hole courses that provide a unique challenge. The Rattler, Roadrunner and Coyote Courses all feature views, a signature hole or two, plenty of risk/reward and a lot of wildlife. In true Palmer fashion, the courses are all environmentally responsible as well, using recycled water from the Colorado River Project rather than drawing from an aquifer.
Starr Pass offers a great resort experience and one we would certainly recommend, particularly the Hashani Spa. History buffs though will head to the Hotel Congress hotelcongress.com. Make no mistake: This is not a luxury hotel, it’s a trip back in time. The 1919 property has been renovated — but not necessarily updated. The original 1930s switchboard is still in use, the rooms are sparsely furnished, and the tiled baths with deep porcelain tubs aren’t offering any massage showerheads. That said, a stay here could make for a great memory. Numerous travelers have passed through, but the most infamous may have been the Dillinger gang, which once checked into the Congress to “lay low” after a series of robberies. You can do the same at this comfortable bit of Old West history. Even if you don’t stay here, be sure to stop in at the hotel’s Tap Room, which has been serving up desert libation since it opened in 1919.
Cantina Romantica at The Rex Ranch in Amado offers excellent regional cuisine with a fantastic view. If you’re looking for a rip-roaring fiesta, look elsewhere; this cantina is all about quiet gourmet. The steak is a surefire pleaser, but house creations like Grilled Citrus Chicken and Shrimp with Tequila-prickly pear sauce or Colorado lamb with port wine-cherry-jalapeño jus will give you something to remember. Reservations required: (520) 398-2914.
In the state’s other corner (the northwest) sits Lake Havasu, a peculiar—if often visited—enclave of Arizona. The 3.5 million visitors that come to Lake Havasu each year are here for the water sports, whether that means fishing, boating, waterskiing, spring breaking or just sunning. Bass and stripers are anglers’ main targets, while sturgeon are the great white whales of the lake. Stocked in the late 1960s, they’re known to live more than 100 years and grow to longer than 20 feet—meaning they’re likely in there, though they’re rarely seen.
After surviving a 19th century terrorist attack and both world wars, the London Bridge retired from its duties spanning the Thames to reside in Lake Havasu. Purchased from the city of London and relocated to the Arizona desert by oilman Robert McCulloch, the bridge was re-built between 1968 and 1971 to span the distance between a tourist walking area and a tourist shopping area (“English Village,” described as a quaint mall with hedge maze and historical museum). If you drive far enough along the lake’s touristed shores, you’ll find numerous companies renting watercraft and offering tours into neighboring canyons—worthwhile diversions. Fishermen will have plenty to do, while those inclined to do less will certainly be accommodated at the lake’s lovely cafes.
When the novelty of the bridge subsides and sitting in the lakeside sun becomes tiresome, there’s the Refuge at Lake Havasu. This Palmer-designed course is within the wonderful Refuge community but is open to the public. With dramatic mountain views and a lakeside setting, the course is absolutely incredible. Natural dunes, sincere elevation changes, deceptively wide fairways and stunning challenges at every turn make this course a must-play; the price and hospitality make it a wonderful bargain. Tee times and information: (928) 764-2275.
Lake Havasu isn’t really much of a luxury retreat town. That is, you’ll see more RV parks than five-star resorts. Still, in the midst of it all, the Agave Inn is a solid option. Aspiring toward urban chic, this lakeside hotel manages crisp comfort and great views of both the lake and the bridge. Top-of-the-line linens, Tempur-Pedic Serenity beds and bath products help, and a planned eatery and watering hole could eventually make this one of the best—if not the best—in the area. agaveinn.com; (888) 898-4328.
The 40-foot tapas and martini bar may have affected our judgment, but the “Big Black Eye” (blackened prime with Cajun shrimp sauce and a chocolate cherry martini) sealed the deal: Cha-Bones in Lake Havasu is a good restaurant. The excellent staff will settle any doubts you have about this somewhat overt rib and steak place, which adds fresh seafood, great pastas and a fantastic grill to its list of attributes. Get there early; reservations are not accepted. Near the bridge, this will likely be a last-minute (good) decision anyway. chabones.com or (928) 854-5554 for more info.
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