The state drink is milk and the state dance is square, but that doesn’t mean you won’t have a good time in Oregon. In fact, you’re as likely to find a cold pint of ale as a tall glass of 2%, and after a tour through the state’s wine country you won’t care what shape the dancing takes. Maybe it’s time to visit the Pacific Northwest…
Oregon didn’t come easy. As late as 1846, the territory was still up for grabs, claimed by both the Americans and the British. The two had jointly occupied the area since the Treaty of 1818, but the arrangement led to tensions so great that there was nearly a war (it would have been the third with Britain in 75 years). Fortunately, in 1846 another treaty solved the problem and now, 162 years later, Portland’s Wildwood restaurant is serving Milk Braised Sweet Briar Farms Pork Shoulder with house-cured guanciale—not fish ’n chips.
Excellent news for gourmands and good for travelers as well because Oregon, in addition to providing great beauty and a well-set table, is replete with activities. Because we’re featuring it in Kingdom, it should be no surprise that those activities include golf.
Oregon is a rather sizeable state with a heavily forested (and beautiful) interior, but the majority of touristing is done on the western side of things, specifically along Interstate 5. From Portland, where your plane will inevitably land, I-5 runs south through the Willamette Valley and its excellent vineyards. From the valley, it’s an easy hitch out to the coast and Hwy 101 to explore the lovely towns and striking beaches. Any itinerary along these lines will provide a rewarding travel experience and more than a few good memories.
Any place touted as “Beervana” by its own Visitor’s Association is bound to be fun, and Portland doesn’t disappoint. Holding more official breweries than Cologne, Germany, “Brewtopia” (another Visitor’s Center moniker) has a long history with beer; in fact, you could say the city has always been flowing with it. So much so that in 1888 Portland brewer Henry Weinhard offered to pump his beer through the newly installed Skidmore Fountain (the offer was politely declined by the city government). Today, you won’t go far without seeing a microbrewery of some kind, and most of them are quite good.
Of course, Portland isn’t just about beer. With great architecture, shopping and parks, the city invites a casual stroll and aimless wandering. But if you’re the kind who gets stressed-out by a lack of planning, put Portland’s Japanese Garden on your schedule [japanesegarden.com]. Considered the finest example of a Japanese garden in North America, the property’s 5 1/2 acres provide five different styles of Japanese gardens and a nice view of Mt. Hood, which seen from the gardens can suddenly seem to resemble Mt. Fuji. Also, Portland’s Art Museum is one of the Northwest’s oldest (founded in 1892) and is well worth a look pam.org, but we headed straight for The Reserve Vineyard and Golf Club reservegolf.com; (503) 649-8191. Just 20 minutes from Portland, The Reserve sits at the edge of the Willamette Valley’s wine country. There are two distinct 18-hole courses on the property, which has hosted the Fred Meyer Challenge and The PGA Champions Tour major, The JELD-WEN Tradition. When you’re through playing, head for The Vintage Room and its excellent selections of local wines.
There are a number of beautiful hotels in Portland, but our favorite is River Place, located on the banks of the Willamette River riverplacehotel.com; (800) 227-1333. Close enough to the city for easy access but far enough removed as to provide real tranquility, this beautiful craftsman-style property charms travelers with old world amenities, including a rich library and fireplace, oversized rooms and even a complimentary shoe shine service. Those who need to be in the thick of things can choose The Heathman Hotel, a AAA four-diamond hotel (for 23 consecutive years) located in downtown portland.heathmanhotel.com. Great shopping, arts and entertainment are literally right outside the door, and the on-site restaurant of the same name is helmed by Chef Philippe Boulot, a James Beard Award for Excellence winner, meaning you won’t have to go far to be completely satisfied.
To go with all of the libation in “Beertown” (the city’s official nickname, courtesy of mayoral decree), Portland’s restaurant scene has really come alive in recent years. Last year, the Food Network awarded it “Delicious Destination of the Year” and Travel + Leisure ranked it No.9 among all U.S. cities as a restaurant town. Near the top of the list: Genoa genoarestaurant.com; (503) 238-1464. This eatery takes its cues from Italy, but throws in a few Northwest twists, like Bison and Alaskan Halibut. If you’re the indecisive type, there’s the five-course Grand Tasting Menu (plus cheese, desserts and petit fours). Wear loose-fitting slacks. The aforementioned Heathman restaurant offers superb quality Northwest cuisine “with a French accent,” and is known for its fresh ingredients and a good meat selection. Lastly, for a great New York Strip or Prime Rib Eye, it’s tough to beat Ringside Steakhouse ringsidesteakhouse.com; (503) 223-1513. Serving straightforward meals with an excellent selection of wine since 1944, Ringside has won a roomful of awards but still maintains its no-nonsense décor and attitude. James Beard’s favorite onion rings, an award as one of the country’s Top 10 steakhouses, and definitely Kingdom’s kind of place.
Head south on I-5 out of Portland and you’ll soon enter the Willamette Valley (which not coincidentally is named for the Willamette River that flows through it). At the southern end of the valley, approximately two hours from Portland, you’ll come to Eugene, an excellent base from which to explore—and by “explore,” we mean visit wineries. Well, there is one non-winery activity in Eugene that is of serious interest (to us, anyway). The Evergreen Aviation & Space Museum is home to, among other aircraft, Howard Hughes’ Spruce Goose, the largest wooden airplane ever built sprucegoose.org. An SR-71A and particularly nice de Havilland (British-designed but American-built and used in WWI) make this a stop worth making. In the true spirit of the valley, the museum also offers tasting of Evergreen Vineyards’ Spruce Goose wine.
Assuredly on the ground, the 200 or so wineries in the area are best known for Pinot Noir. Sheltered from Pacific storms to the west and from the dry climate to the east by mountains on both sides, the valley forms a bowl of misty, cool beauty that affects the grapes perfectly for the wine. There are so many wineries it would be impossible to offer a breakdown of each, so we’ll just pick a couple of our favorites. First is Amity Vineyards, founded in 1974 by a pioneer Oregon family amityvineyards.com. With sulfite-free organic offerings, their Pinot is as clean as it is lovely. Additionally, try the Late Harvest Riesling. Also founded in 1974 and in an absolutely beautiful setting, Elk Cove Vineyards creates an outstanding single vineyard Pinot Noir, but also offers an interesting Rosé Pinot Noir elkcove.com. After pressing, the juice didn’t remain in contact with the skins for very long, meaning this full-taste wine is light pink in color. Also try: “Ultima” dessert wine (if you can find it). Evesham Wood Vineyard’s Russ Raney is a local treasure eveshamwood.com. Unassuming and kind, the owner and winemaker is considered by locals to be somewhat of a genius. The Pinot Noir Le Puits Sec he creates on his “mom ’n pop” vineyard is exquisite. Lastly, Penner-Ash has a nice Viognier pennerash.com. Citrus, melon and red pear come together with an apricot finish to make for a smooth, if creamy, wine. From a grape that almost disappeared 20 years ago, Viognier goes well with chicken, fish or even the Thanksgiving Day meal.
Driving yourself from winery to winery is not the greatest idea, so we suggest taking a helicopter. For $1,500 Applebee Aviation will give your party a birds-eye view of the vines and a stop at a winery for a tasting applebeeaviation.com. Memorable, and you don’t have to worry about the car.
In our honest opinion, Eugene could use more nice hotels. For now, a luxury stay in the area will be at a bed & breakfast. Of the many available, we like the Excelsior Inn—and not just because it used to be a sorority house excelsiorinn.com. Built in 1912 to house sorority girls from the University of Oregon, the Inn opened as a gourmet restaurant in 1993. The excellent restaurant is still in place, but now 14 rooms grace the upstairs. Each is named after a famous composer and decorated in a refined manner, largely avoiding the kitsch that can so often plague B&Bs. Another option is Campbell House campbellhouse.com. Built in 1892, it’s historic, elegant and offers great food and a limo wine-country tour.
Located in the original 1912 train depot, the Oregon Electric Station restaurant serves great prime rib and fresh seafood oesrestaurant.com; (541) 485-4444. Whether you’re enjoying romantic dining in a historic railroad dining car or live jazz in one of the station’s three lounges, the Electric Station is a good option with a wide selection. Adam’s Place is another possibility, with beautiful and fresh steaks and Italian-inspired food (541) 344-6948. The Fresh Tagliatelle with Morels and House Smoked Muscovy Duck Breast is particularly appealing, as is the fact that Adam’s features its own Martini Club.
Oregon’s Pacific coast has long been a source of inspiration for artists, poets and others. Pick any stretch of coastline and it’s likely a beautiful place to gather your thoughts and watch the sunset. Most of the seaside towns are small, which means fewer offerings in terms of amenities and dining options. Thus, where you stay will likely determine where you eat, spend your days, etc. While there are a number of remote cabins for rent and quaint towns to discover, we like the Salishan Spa and Golf Resort in the community of Gleneden Beach salishan.com. Essentially halfway between Portland and Eugene on Hwy 101, Salishan is within 30 miles of a number of attractions, including the Oregon Aquarium; Undersea Gardens; Newport’s Historic Bay Front; the Yaquina Bay Lighthouse and more. With 205 guest rooms, it’s amazing the Salishan feels as refined as it does. Rooms and suites are elegant, featuring slate fireplaces, granite wet bars, luxurious baths with travertine and granite finishes, lush bedding and seating appointments and more. The on-site Spa caters to relaxation needs while a full pool and fitness/recreation center tends to active types. When you’re feeling like hitting a few balls, the beautiful course at Salishan is a gorgeous way to spend the day. The front nine winds through old-growth timber while the back nine essentially play as links-style. Designed by Oregonian and PGA Pro Peter Jacobsen, this par 71 is a delight.
Finally, when it’s time to eat, the Salishan Dining Room offers great regional cuisine (and more than 10,000 bottles of wine). Alternately, the resort’s more casual dining room is more than adequate and does a great hamburger.
Maybe you live in Washington State and have had enough of the Pacific Coast; maybe you just don’t like water. Either way, if you skip the beaches and head south out of Eugene, you can make a pilgrimage of sorts to the Running Y Ranch at Klamath Falls and the only Arnold Palmer Golf Course in the state runningy.com; (888) 850-0261. Close to the California border, the course plays through rolling terrain with mature pine forests and scenic wetlands. The front nine feature restored wetlands while the back nine head into Payne Canyon and spectacular views. Ranked No.66 among top 100 Public Courses in America by Golf Digest for 2007-2008 and No.13 among Top 100 Courses in the Nation by Golf for Women for 2007, Running Y is a true gem. And as a member of the Audubon Cooperative Sanctuary System the course not only plays well, it helps preserve the surrounding nature that makes it so distinctive.
Soon, Running Y Ranch will be joined by another Palmer course at The Tradition, near Bend. But for that, we’ll all have to wait….
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