
Appreciation for the Mexican agave spirit of tequila has never been stronger. Yet, tension exists between tequila as commodity and tequila as craft.
Authentic tequila, says Sergio Mendoza, co-founder of the Don Fulano brand, should, like fine wine, express terroir and reflect expert craftsmanship. “Techniques like slow cooking, natural open-tank fermentation, copper distillation, and carefully selected barrels all point to a spirit crafted with intent, not speed,” he says. That intent begins long before distillation, with careful soil management and the harvest of each estate-grown agave plant at optimal maturity.
Fortunately, as true craft tequila gains momentum, it’s never been easier to find excellent bottles outside of Mexico, including the four featured here.

To make this unique and noteworthy blanco tequila, revered distiller Salvador “Chava” Rosales Torres uses a large stone wheel, known as a tahona, to crush the cooked agave before fermentation. The resulting spirit has a unique richness and distinct minerality that sets it apart from other blancos (a classification for unaged tequilas). It opens on the palate with roasted agave and fresh citrus before settling into notes of wet stone and white pepper, all culminating in a long, agave-forward, savory finish.
Launched almost 25 years ago, Don Fulano is rooted in five generations of family agave farming in the highlands of Jalisco. The brand’s añejo is aged in a mix of French and Hungarian oak (including ex-wine barrels), which adds oak-driven spice while accentuating the spirit’s agave character. Layers of vanilla, butterscotch, and warm baking spice emerge on the nose; the palate is silky, balanced, and appropriately sweet; and the spirit finishes long and smooth, with a soft, buttery richness.
Lágrimas del Valle’s reposado is made from Blue Weber agave grown in the state of Guanajuato, which gives the tequila an earthy and herbaceous character, balanced by just the right amount of vanilla (derived from three months of barrel maturation). On the front of the palate, the spirit offers up baked agave, green pepper, and citrus, followed by gentle oak spice, toasted almond, and a soft, honeyed warmth that lingers through the finish.
Pour Tapatio Excelencia for any whiskey drinker who’s skeptical about tequila, and they’ll find a lot to love. This extra añejo tequila, crafted at the legendary Camarena family distillery, is aged in ex-bourbon barrels that impart flavors and aromas of butterscotch and caramel. On the palate, dried fig, toasted coconut, and dark chocolate occur alongside cooked agave, with a deep, oaky character and a long, warming finish marked by spice and vanilla.
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