If Aspen were to be defined by an emblem of fashion, a Kemo Sabe custom cowboy hat would be it. Equal parts Western heritage and modern status symbol, the hats have become as synonymous with the posh destination as its slopes and storied après scene.

Jeff Bezos is a regular customer and fan, frequently seen around town in a rotating collection of bespoke hats. Kevin Costner, William H. Macy, Orlando Bloom, Rihanna, and many other high-profile figures have also embraced the brand—not just for its hats but also for its other custom pieces, including cowboy boots, belts, and outerwear.

Husband-and-wife Tom and Nancy Yoder founded Kemo Sabe in 1990 in a modest storefront in Snowmass Village. In 1993, the couple moved the store to downtown Aspen, opening a four-story space complete with a bar. Two years later, the Yoders ventured into hat personalization, a move that would come to define the brand and its commitment to craftsmanship, functionality, and durability.

Kemo Sabe’s hat outfitters, known as wranglers, hand shape each custom cowboy hat in partnership with the client. “They watch their hat come to life firsthand and can tweak the design along the way,” says Wendy Kunkle, a former salesperson for Kemo Sabe who became president of the company after taking over the business with her brother, Bobby Kunkle, in 2020. She says the customization process at the Aspen store takes roughly 45 minutes, a period that customers can enjoy with a top-shelf tequila, whisky, or cocktail in hand.

While the wranglers’ creations have become coveted style statements, they are rooted in the cowboy hat’s history as an essential tool. “A hat offered shade, warmth, and protection in unforgiving conditions,” Wendy says. “It could even be used to fan a fire, carry water, or signal another rider.”

That function is reflected in the materials. While most off-the-rack hats are made of wool, “a true cowboy hat is made of fur felt,” Wendy says. Fur fibers bind together to create a dense felt that naturally resists water and is hardy enough to withstand sun, rain, snow, and continued wear. Wool, in contrast, absorbs moisture, loses structure, and eventually degrades.

Stiffness is another key distinction. “The stiffer the hat, the better the hat,” Wendy says. Fur felt holds its form and can be reshaped repeatedly—and can improve with age. “I have hats over 20 years old that still wear beautifully,” she adds. “In fact, they’re better now than when they were new. Character only comes with time.”

Kemo Sabe’s core hat, the Kemo Sabe Grit—or “the canvas,” as Wendy describes it—is handmade at the brand’s hat ranch atelier in Gainesville, Texas. Customization begins with sizing, measured in one-eighth-inch increments. The wranglers also determine whether a client has a regular or oval head shape, which is critical for comfort.

Next up are color and style. That could mean a classic cowboy hat with a curled or flat brim, or a more fashion-forward design with a tipped front and back. Color options—about 30 in all—range from neutrals to bolder hues, such as turquoise and purple. “Once fit, color, and style are dialed in, we shape, adjusting brim length, curl, crown height, and proportions,” Wendy says.

The final bit of fun comes in the hat’s embellishments. Customers have their pick of thousands of hatbands crafted from leather, beads, and even diamonds, along with hundreds of pins and feathers in varying sizes and species—turkey, pheasant, duck, and more. The finishing touch is the branding: initials or another custom symbol burned directly into the felt.

A bespoke Kemo Sabe hat starts in the four-figure range and can reach upward of $20,000, depending on materials and level of personalization. “Our goal is for you to absolutely love your hat and wear it where you live, not just in our mountain towns,” Wendy says. “Like custom golf clubs, it’s about precision, performance, and individuality. Both are tools, but deeply personal ones.”

The Kunkles intend for that personal connection to last, passed down from one generation to the next. “We restore hats worn by grandparents so the next generation can enjoy them,” Wendy says. “That’s the power of craftsmanship.”