Champagne has long set the bar for sparkling wines, but bubblies from California may finally be catching up to their Old World counterparts. From Napa Valley to the Sonoma Coast and beyond, vintners in the state have elevated their craft to a level on par with the finest French houses in terms of complexity, finesse, age-worthiness, and, most important, taste.

“The sparkling wines being produced right now are nothing short of exceptional,” says Stephen Arnold Jr., the lead sommelier at Italian restaurant Bottega Napa Valley in Yountville. “They rival the best of Champagne.”

Arnold attributes the rise of California’s sparkling wine industry over the last decade to an emphasis on high-quality fruit, lower yields, and even ripening. A new generation of producers—many of them boutique labels—is now earning global acclaim and increased demand. “Some of their expressions are allocated and hard to come by,” Arnold says.

Schramsberg, first founded in the 19th century, is among the pioneers of California’s sparkling wine industry and remains one of the state’s elite producers. Arnold calls the 2016 J. Schram Rosé a “stunner.”

We asked the sommelier to share a few of his other favorite producers and the most exceptional bottle from each.

Roederer Estate

The California counterpart of Champagne Louis Roederer, this Mendocino County producer has a strong foundation in world-class production. The L’Ermitage, its tête de cuvée, was first produced in 1989 and best reflects this pedigree. The 2019 vintage earned an astounding 100-point score from Wine Enthusiast, which is “an incredibly rare feat for domestic sparkling wine,” Arnold says. “Aromas of juicy stone fruit and citrus blossom meet you right away, while the palate features a creamy mousse with salted caramel and blood-orange zest.”

Equally impressive is Roederer Estate’s new hospitality center overlooking the Anderson Valley. The elegantly designed space, with nods to Japanese modernist architecture, features a tasting room, expansive patio, salon, and lounge.

The Hilt

Founded in 2008 by Stan Kroenke—owner of the cult wine Screaming Eagle—the Hilt is situated on the historic 3,600-acre Rancho Salsipuedes estate in Santa Barbara County’s Santa Rita Hills appellation. The boutique label capitalizes on the area’s maritime climate, which enables long, even ripening and exceptional fruit quality.

The 2020 Hilt Estate Sparkling, a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, is a prime example of the winery’s precision. The wine, of which only 180 cases were produced, was fermented for six months in French-oak barrels and aged an additional 36 months on the lees. “It’s made in the traditional Champagne method and offers aromas of lemon zest, jasmine, and stone fruit, complemented by an elegant mousse and chalky minerality,” Arnold says. “It’s just gorgeous.”

Designed by renowned architect Howard J. Backen, the Barn at the Hilt Estate draws inspiration from the region’s agrarian roots. Its soaring cathedral ceiling, with reclaimed wood from the property’s original 1914 barn, and seamless indoor-outdoor spaces frame sweeping views of the surrounding landscape. Guests can partake in a range of tastings, some of which include limited, experimental, and library bottlings.

Inman Family Wines

Kathleen Inman is the powerhouse behind one of California’s most distinguished smaller grower-producer wineries—a true one-woman show in Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley. Arnold describes her as an innovator in responsible winemaking, highlighting her forward-thinking approach and solar-powered production methods. Her prized Olivet Grange parcel encompasses a modest 10.5 acres and yields some of the best fruit in the region.

The 2018 Inman Family Luxe Cuvée Extra Brut, made in the classic méthode champenoise, reflects her craftsmanship and is made of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Gris grapes. “The Extra Brut is bright and perfumed, layered and complex,” Arnold says. “The palate offers notes of crisp Asian pear, honeyed apples, and almond.”

A visit to Inman’s scenic estate, where vines blanket every corner, makes for a relaxed and authentic excursion. In most cases, Inman herself leads guests through tastings and vineyard walks, explaining her eco-minded practices.

Racines

Racines, meaning “roots” in French, is a joint venture in the Santa Rita Hills between Etienne de Montille and Brian Sieve of Burgundy and Rodolphe Peters of Champagne. Founded in 2017, the winery, according to Arnold, aims to craft traditional method sparkling wines using the finesse of Burgundy and the prestige of Champagne. “This brand is a power of the minds,” he says.

Racines’ vineyards are organic and biodynamically farmed, and the area’s cool climate yields grapes of remarkable purity and balance. Those qualities shine in the NV Grand Reserve Sparkling, a Blanc de Blancs made entirely of Chardonnay. “It has a rich creaminess and precise minerality on the palate,” Arnold says. Aromas of citrus peel, toasty brioche, and hazelnuts are on full display.

Racines hosts a limited number of tastings on its 40-acre estate, named de Montille, led by winemaker and viticulturalist Ryan Hannaford. Reservations must be made in advance. “Nothing is preset,” Hannaford explains. “I cater the experience to what guests want, whether that means walking the vineyards and learning more about the terroir or tasting library wines.”