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Weekend Two Ways: Newport, Rhode Island

Whether for its ocean blues or golf-course greens, New England’s City by the Sea is tailor-made for a quick summer getaway.
by Shaun Tolson

Weekend Two Ways: Newport, Rhode Island

Whether for its ocean blues or golf-course greens, New England’s City by the Sea is tailor-made for a quick summer getaway.
by Shaun Tolson

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1: Teeing Off

The recent Senior U.S. Open at Newport Country Club (main image) served as a reminder that the Ocean State—and the greater Newport area, specifically—is riddled with exceptional golf courses. Better still, many of them are public. A 16-minute drive northeast of downtown brings avid golfers to Newport National, an Arthur Hills design that rambles across 200 acres and abuts protected wetlands and bird sanctuaries. The 7,244-yard layout is mostly buffeted from the wind, but its undulating greens and lush, native grasses lining the edges of playing corridors keep golfers in check. Peak-season greens fees ($175) may seem high given the lack of a driving range and the fact that the clubhouse is a modestly outfitted double-wide; however, Newport National’s immaculate course conditions justify the cost of entry.

Green Valley Country Club, located six miles north of downtown Newport, is the epitome of parkland golf in New England. In the mid-1990s, the club became the state’s first public course to host both the Rhode Island Amateur and the Rhode Island Open. Another six miles to the north, Montaup Country Club offers a challenging test with its narrow, tree-lined fairways and small, raised greens—two features that reflect the 6,538-yard layout’s 1920s origins.

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The Vanderbilt (left) TSK (right)

Stay
Once the mansion of Alfred Gwynne Vanderbilt, the Vanderbilt hotel from Auberge Resorts sparkles for its sense of history and its location a short walk from the shops and restaurants that line Thames Street. The rooftop deck and whiskey room make for an ideal retreat following a day spent out on the links.

Eat
Local and uber-seasonal ingredients dictate the ever-changing menu at TSK (Thames Street Kitchen), where mission-cut rib-eyes are the can’t-miss attraction. As cocktails go, TSK takes a refreshingly simple approach, grouping its libations into three categories: martinis, Negroni drinks, and fancy drinks. Order the mezcal drink. Better yet, order two.

Do
To gain an appreciation for precisely hit shots of a different variety, visit the International Tennis Hall of Fame, where thousands of artifacts on display chronicle the sport’s history through three distinct eras: The Birth of Tennis (1874 to 1918), The Popular Game (1918 to 1968), and The Open Era (1968 to present day).

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America’s Cup Charters

2: Setting Sail

Newport has long been the unofficial capital of American yachting, as the “glory days” of the America’s Cup—an era that spanned more than 50 years during the mid-20th century—were contested at the mouth of Narragansett Bay on waters that surround the City by the Sea.

Predictably, Newport today offers a vast range of sailing experiences, with charters and tours designed to suit equally diverse audiences. If the thought of racing gives you a thrill, a customized day on the water with America’s Cup Charters will deliver the surge of adrenaline you’re after. The company’s fleet includes half-a-dozen 12-meter racing yachts, several of which have America’s Cup pedigrees, and its racing charters provide an authentic taste of competitive sailing, as each member of a group takes a dedicated position on board and is responsible for a given task.

For more relaxed boating excursions, Sightsailing offers private charters and public sailing tours that include mimosa cruises, day sails, and sunset cruises. The company’s fleet of yachts is just as varied. Larger tours will sail aboard Aquidneck, an elegant and accurate reproduction of a late-1800s coasting schooner, while smaller trips might utilize Sightsailer, a 46-foot sloop, or Starlight, a 34-foot O’Day.

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Castle Hill Inn (left) and The Breakers (right)

Stay
Castle Hill Inn is spread out across more acres (40) than there are guest rooms (33). The Relais & Chateaux property is positioned on a point about four miles from downtown and boasts half a mile of private shoreline. Its gently sloped lawn, outfitted with Adirondack chairs, is the best place in town to relax by the water.

Eat
Adventurous diners will get their fill at Cara, the fine-dining restaurant at the Chanler, a boutique hotel at the end of the cliff walk. Chef Jacob Jasinski produces five- and eight-course blind tasting menus comprising avant-garde dishes that change daily. The kitchen team presents the fare tableside to explain each dish.

Do
Touring the mansions owned and maintained by the Preservation Society of Newport County provides an illuminating glimpse into the Gilded Age. The Breakers, in particular, will leave you awestruck, as the 70-room palace covers more than 125,000 square feet.

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Masters that changed golf

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