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Spirited Cooking

At Gabriel Kreuther’s Michelin-starred restaurant in Manhattan, the classically trained French chef has developed a special tasting menu around one of his new favorite ingredients—Scotch whisky.
By Shaun Tolson

Spirited Cooking

At Gabriel Kreuther’s Michelin-starred restaurant in Manhattan, the classically trained French chef has developed a special tasting menu around one of his new favorite ingredients—Scotch whisky.
By Shaun Tolson

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ooking with alcohol is firmly entrenched in Gabriel Kreuther’s Alsatian roots. In fact, the Michelin-starred chef grew up watching his grandfather craft his own brandies and schnapps. Later, when Kreuther was serving as an apprentice in various European kitchens, he learned to make marinades, foie gras, sausages, and pâtés that incorporated Cognac, Armagnac, or whisky. “It’s basically a part of my culture,” he says.

It’s fitting, then, that the 56-year-old chef turned to a bottle of mature, blended Scotch when he was challenged to create a rendition of one of his signature dishes—squab and foie gras croustillant—without using the buttery, goose-liver pâté. In its place, Kreuther devised a concoction of cashews, dried morel and shiitake mushrooms, onions, garlic, plenty of herbs and spices, and—in a twist—a blended Scotch whisky flambé.

Initially, he served the dish to patrons who dined at the chef’s table of his eponymous Manhattan-based restaurant. But soon, those guests’ praise was so effusive and so frequent that Kreuther knew he had to give the dish a permanent place on the restaurant’s everyday menu.

“The tertiary flavor and the roundness of the whisky, it really changes the way it behaves with food,” he says, which explains why the blended Scotch—Dewar’s 18 Year Old, to be specific—works better as a flambé for his cashew-and-wild-mushroom pâté than does Cognac or Armagnac, both of which Kreuther tested. In fact, the chef initially tried the recipe using both the 12- and 15-year-old Dewar’s expressions, too. Ultimately, it was the 18’s depth of flavor that made the difference. “I like the 18 Year best to cook with,” he says. “It’s a very friendly, complex whisky.”

Not long afterward, Kreuther took inspiration from the Dewar’s 18 Year Old and created a dish he calls Montauk Lobster “Flambée Au Whisky.” It’s essentially a butter-basted Long Island lobster tail that is gently pan seared, then flambéed with two tablespoons of Dewar’s 18. “Our job [as chefs] is to figure out how to extract the best flavors of a product,” says Kreuther, who found that the sweetness and salinity of the lobster meat mirrored some of the secondary notes of the whisky. By coating the meat with a thin layer of Scotch during the flambé process, he found that the spirit’s maritime quality enhanced and expanded the lobster’s natural flavor. “There’s a harmonious way that they come together.”

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Kreuther’s Montauk Lobster “Flambée Au Whisky”.

All this experimentation led to a formal partnership with Dewar’s and a subsequent whisky-focused tasting menu comprising dishes that either feature the spirit as an ingredient or are paired with neat pours and whisky-based cocktails. The meal begins with a series of amuse-bouches, for example, served alongside a blended Scotch cocktail rooted in grapefruit and cranberry flavors and accented by a splash of absinthe. One such introductory bite, a s’mores hushpuppy, highlights the whisky’s underlying smokiness, while rambutan ceviche draws out the spirit’s floral and citrus character.

The meal concludes with a neat pour of Dewar’s Double Double 27 Year Old, which Kreuther serves alongside bespoke chocolates infused with a measure of the whisky label’s latest collector’s release, the Double Double 38 Year Old. In the chef’s opinion, the whisky’s honeyed fruits, subtle spice, and heady floral notes are a sublime complement to the richness of the chocolate.

As for the foundation of this cooking-meets-whisky collaboration, Kreuther acknowledges that it’s as much about how the spirit is made as it is about the flavors born from that creation. “What intrigued me about Dewar’s was the thoughtfulness of the blending,” he says. “It’s a little bit the same process as me thinking about the final product of a dish and putting something together with a specific result that I’m chasing.”

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The Earth & Oak cocktail made with Dewar’s Double Double 21 Year Old.

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